Bethlehem's Holiday Tree Lighting Illuminates Once Again After the Outbreak of the Conflict

For two years amid the Gaza war, every festive public event for Christmas were called off within the city of Bethlehem in the occupied West Bank. This place is where the faithful hold Jesus was born.

But, after the recent ceasefire, the holy city determined that now celebrations would make a comeback, as represented by the lighting of its traditional, large holiday tree before the ancient Church of the Nativity.

"It's been two difficult years without celebration; no Christmas, no jobs, no income," remarks the city's mayor Maher Canawati. "Our community survives from tourism and tourism was down to nothing."

The mayor acknowledges that the decision to restart festivities was not without debate, as suffering continues within Gaza – which affects those in its tiny Christian community, who often have family ties to Bethlehem.

"Certain voices argue it's not appropriate and others say it is fitting," the mayor notes. "However, in my heart, I felt that this was the right thing to do because the Christmas season should never be halted or abandoned. This represents a beacon of hope for our community."

A Spark of Celebration Reappears

Locals – from both Christian and Muslim faiths – take photographs in front of the tree decorated with gold and red ornaments at Manger Square. They are joined by a handful of international visitors.

Brightly coloured lights now decorate the streets and there are signs advertising Christmas bazaars and children's parties.

"We're very happy to have the tree, first thing, and to welcome visitors to Bethlehem and to be able to observe the holiday in its authentic spirit," says Bethlehem designer Nadya Hazboun.

"This place is where it all started, therefore here is where we can send the message to the world about what really Christmas should be about. And now, if the season is calm, I sincerely hope it will deliver a positive message for the whole world."

Economic Hopes and Difficulties

Nearby towns of Beit Jala and Beit Sahour also intend to light holiday trees in the coming days. Local hotels – which have stood mostly vacant for the past two years – are seeing a rise in reservations from Arab citizens of Israel along with some foreign visitors.

One tourist from Russia, named Angelica, is making her second pilgrimage to this region. "I think everyone needs to come at least once in their life," she states.

"I hope a lot of people will return soon as it is sorrowful without many tourists. The sole aspect that is positive is that there are no long lines – you can come and see more things. When I came before it was necessary to wait in a queue for a few hours at least."

For now, the gift shops scattered throughout the city have little business, and outside the cream-coloured walls of the Church of the Nativity, which originate from the 4th century, tour guides are mostly unoccupied. Before the conflict, it was often crammed with people.

"This is a city for tourists; absent visitors there is no livelihood," expresses one guide Hamza. "We aspire to have people coming back as in the past: from Europe, the Middle East, the Americas, Latin America and everywhere. We begin with the Christmas tree lighting, and we'll wait."

The Persistent Economic Impact

In the past two years, unemployment has skyrocketed in Bethlehem. Since the lethal Hamas-led attacks in southern Israel during October 2023 that sparked the war, tens of thousands of Palestinian workers from the West Bank have been blocked from entering Israel and its settlements to work.

At the same time, government employees have received only partial salaries from the Palestinian Authority (PA) – which governs areas within the West Bank. The Authority depends on tax revenues gathered by Israel, which it is currently holding – to the tune of 1.76 billion dollars, according to the UN's trade and development agency.

Israeli officials state it is holding these funds because the PA makes financial payments to incarcerated Palestinians that encourage attacks on Israelis. The authority – facing international pressure to make reforms – says it has lately modified its welfare system.

A Modest Christmas Season

The grim economic outlook means that for many Christian Palestinians, even though there are currently public festivities in addition to religious services, it will be a subdued holiday season.

At the edge of the square, some patrons wait to buy hot balls of falafel from several shops.

"We're preparing for the holiday following one of our hardest periods as a Palestinian people and as a Christian community," says one restaurant owner, who runs Afteem, a long-established family-run eatery that has witnessed its revenues collapse. He says that recently numerous families could not even afford falafel – an inexpensive, traditional food.

"The faithful will attempt to mark the occasion but according to their situation," Mr Salameh anticipates. "Someone who wants to take his kids to a festive event or the theatre or similar, he doesn't have the funds to spend for this celebration."

Hopes for Peace and Prosperity

In the cave-like grotto beneath the church, a resident follows a tour group from India, bending down by a silver star that indicates the location where it is said Jesus was born and lighting a candle close by.

With tensions still high across the region, people in Bethlehem state they are praying for peace – and wishing for tourists to come back to the location which is thought to be where Christmas started.

Christopher Hayes
Christopher Hayes

A passionate travel writer and photographer, dedicated to uncovering Italy's lesser-known destinations and sharing authentic experiences.